Jacket Types and Comparisons
What Is a Trucker Jacket? The Type III Design Explained
A trucker jacket is the Levi's Type III cut: V seams, two flap chest pockets, no pleats. How to spot one, its history, the name, and trucker vs denim jacket.
A trucker jacket is a short, button-front jacket built on the Levi's Type III design: two chest pockets with V-shaped seams running down to the waistband, no front pleats and a tapered body. It is usually made of denim, but the name describes the cut, not the fabric, so corduroy, suede and leather truckers exist too.
Many people call every denim jacket a trucker. Levi Strauss & Co.'s own historian says that is historically inaccurate: "Trucker" means one design the company introduced in the 1960s. This guide is part of our jacket types and key differences guide.
Key takeaways- Trucker = the Type III cut, designed by Jack Lucier for Levi's.- The tell is the pair of V seams from the chest pockets to the waist.- Its start date is given as late 1961 or 1962, depending on the source.- Nobody agrees on why it is called "trucker" (see below).
How to spot a trucker jacket
Look for these details together. One alone is not enough, because many denim jackets share buttons and chest pockets.
- V seams. Two seams slant from the chest pockets down to the waistband. Levi's says they gave "a pleasing symmetry" to an otherwise boxy shape.
- No pleats. The older Type I and Type II had pleats down the front; the Type III dropped them.
- Two flap chest pockets. Small chest pockets with button flaps.
- Tapered waist, no cinch. A slimmer, longer body than earlier types, with no back buckle.
- Bar tacks. Wikipedia lists bar tacks holding down the chest pockets and sleeve openings, plus welt hand pockets.
- Hand pockets on later versions. Levi's says side pockets were added in the 1980s.
Type I vs Type II vs Type III
The trucker is the third of three classic Levi's denim jackets. Levi's describes each one in its own heritage notes.
Before all three came the Triple Pleat Blouse of the 1870s, which Levi's calls the first riveted denim jacket.
David of The Vintage Future walks through the Type I, Type II and Type III side by side, with the pleats, pockets and adjusters on real jackets. Note that he prefers the Type II, which is his own taste, and his reproduction is cut longer than the original, as he says himself.
| Column 1 | Type I (Lot 506) | Type II (Lot 507) | Type III (Lot 557, later 70505) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Years | 1905–1953 | 1953–1961 | From late 1961 or 1962 |
| Fit | Boxy | Boxy | Tapered |
| Front | Two pleats | Two pleats | V seams, no pleats |
| Chest pockets | One | Two, symmetrical | Two, with flaps |
| Waist adjustment | Rear buckle cinch | Back cinch or side adjusters | No cinch |
Where the trucker came from
Jack Lucier designed the Type III, sketching it on a notepad. Levi's 2023 history puts its first appearance in the October 1961 catalog. A 2017 Levi's post and Wikipedia say 1962, and Wikipedia notes that other sources give 1961 or 1967.
In 1967 the jacket became Lot 70505, renamed to match the new 505 jean. The sources also disagree on when the copper rivets went:
- In the first design: the 2017 Levi's post says Lucier "did away with" pleats and copper rivets.
- In 1967: the 2023 Levi's post says the rivets were removed with the change to Lot 70505.
- After 1980: Rivet & Hide, a denim retailer, says later versions replaced rivets with bar tacks.
Levi's says the basic Type III design has stayed the same since, apart from small pocket changes.
Why is it called a trucker jacket?
Sources disagree:
- Collectors: Levi Strauss & Co. says collectors in the Japanese vintage market coined "Trucker" in the 1980s.
- Drivers: Rivet & Hide says the nickname came from its popularity with long-haul drivers.
- Unclear: Taylor Stitch, a clothing brand, says the reason is unclear and offers a theory about the 1980s trucking boom.
Our view: the maker's own account is the most direct source, but none of the three shows records. Treat the name as a nickname that stuck, not a sign the jacket was made for truckers.
Trucker jacket vs denim jacket
"Denim jacket" names a fabric. "Trucker" names a cut. Wikipedia uses jean jacket, denim jacket and trucker jacket as names for the same denim garment, but Levi's says that usage is historically loose.
Wikipedia's list of jackets describes the chore jacket as originally workwear, in denim or robust cloth. For how a denim jacket compares with a bomber, see how bomber jackets compare with other jacket styles.
| Column 1 | Trucker jacket | Other denim jackets |
|---|---|---|
| Defined by | The Type III cut | The fabric |
| Front | V seams, no pleats | May have pleats (Type I, II) |
| Fabrics | Denim, corduroy, suede, leather, waxed canvas | Denim only |
| Example that is not a trucker | – | Denim chore jacket, with large front pockets |
What trucker jackets are made of
- Denim. The classic. Most are blue, but denim takes any color cotton can, so white and other shades exist.
- Raw denim. Raw or dry denim jackets are not washed or distressed at the factory and fade with wear. To give a trucker jacket a worn look, follow how to distress a jacket safely.
- Corduroy, suede and leather. Levi's makes the Type III in all three.
- Sherpa-lined. Levi's sells a Sherpa-lined Trucker for winter.
Denim weight is given in ounces per square yard, so "14-ounce denim" means 14 oz per square yard. See what affects a jacket's weight for how fabric weight is measured. The planned guide to trucker jacket styles and their features covers the variants in more depth.
Should a trucker jacket be tight?
Style writers split. One camp wants it snug to the waist; another likes it slightly oversized for layering. Our trucker jacket styling guide covers fit, washes and outfits.
A trucker cut in leather
The store does not list a jacket called a trucker. Its nearest ready style is the leather shirt jacket, with a shirt collar and a button or zip front.
For a trucker shape, the Leather Collection custom leather jackets service builds a jacket to your measurements, with the sleeves, waist and length cut to your body. You choose the style, leather and color, and each jacket is stitched by hand to order. Ask about V seams and flap chest pockets when you discuss the design.
FAQ
Why is it called a trucker jacket?
Levi's says collectors in the Japanese vintage market coined the name in the 1980s. Other sources credit long-haul drivers or call it unclear.
What is the difference between a trucker jacket and a denim jacket?
A trucker is a specific cut, the Type III. A denim jacket is any jacket made of denim. So a trucker can be corduroy or leather, and a denim chore jacket is not a trucker.
Is a Levi's Type III the same as a trucker jacket?
Yes. The Type III (Lot 557, later Lot 70505) is the jacket that came to be called the Trucker.
Who designed the trucker jacket?
Jack Lucier, for Levi Strauss & Co..
Related pages
Sources
- Levi Strauss & Co., Trucker, or Non-Trucker? (2023) and The Type III Trucker Jacket Celebrates 50 Years (2017)
- Wikipedia, Jean jacket and Jacket
- Rivet & Hide, The real difference between Type I, II and III denim jackets (denim retailer editorial, 2025)
- Primer, What's the difference between a trucker jacket and a denim jacket?
- Taylor Stitch, The Trucker Jacket Field Guide (clothing brand blog)
All read 2026-10-10.
leatheride Editorial Team
leatheride articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.