Jacket Types and Comparisons
Common Jacket Collar Styles Explained
Rib knit, mandarin, shirt, shearling, biker, notched and shawl: what each jacket collar style is called, where it comes from and when to pick it.
Every jacket collar is one of three kinds: standing (up around the neck), turnover (stands, then folds over) or flat (lies on the shoulders). The common jacket collar styles are rib knit, stand or mandarin, shirt, fur or shearling, and the lapel collars: notched, peaked and shawl. A hood is the other option.
Collars began as neck armour, and they still shield your neck. They also set how casual or formal a jacket looks, from a sporty rib knit to a formal peaked lapel.
This guide is part of our jacket types and key differences guide.
Jacket collar styles at a glance
| Collar | Kind | Where you see it | What it does best |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rib knit | Standing, soft | Bombers, ball jackets | Matches the ribbed cuffs and hem |
| Knit stand-up, buttoned | Standing | The 1927 A-1 flight jacket | Buttons closed at the neck |
| Mandarin (cadet) | Standing, open at front | Jackets and shirts | A small, low standing line |
| Band | Standing, usually buttoned | Jackets and shirts | Buttons shut at the front |
| Banded (letterman) | Standing knit band | Varsity jackets | Matches the cuffs and hem |
| Shirt-style | Turnover | A-2 flight jacket | Lies like a shirt collar |
| Fur (mouton) | Turnover | G-1 and B-15 flight jackets | The signature G-1 look |
| Shearling | Turnover, large | Aviator jackets | Extra warmth for the neck |
| Snap-down collar and lapels | Turnover with lapels | Perfecto-style biker jackets | Wide collar you can lock down |
| Notched lapel | Lapel | Blazers, sport coats, suits | The most common lapel |
| Peaked lapel | Lapel | Double-breasted jackets | More formal |
| Shawl | Rolled lapel | Tuxedos, cardigans | One continuous curve |
| Hood | Attached hood | Hooded leather jackets | Covers head and neck in wind |
Collar or lapel? The basic terms
A collar is the part of a garment that fastens around or frames the neck. To clothing makers it is a separate piece of fabric. Revers and lapels are different: they are folded or cut from the body fabric.
A lapel is the folded flap on the front of a jacket below the collar. It is usually the front edge folded over and sewn to the collar, which runs around the back of the neck.
The word goes back a long way. The Oxford English Dictionary traces "collar" to about 1300, when collars were neck armour.
Standing collars
Standing collars rise around the neck and do not lie on the shoulders.
Rib knit collar
This is the bomber collar. Frank And Oak describes it as flat and often made of the same ribbed knit as the cuffs and hem.
The baseball-style ball jacket has the same knitted collar, cuffs and waistband. On civilian bombers the knit moved from wool to acrylic or a wool-acrylic blend, because wool drew moths in home closets.
Mandarin, band and Nehru collars
These are the stand collars most people mean. A mandarin collar, also called a cadet or Chinese collar, is a small standing collar that stays open at the front. A band collar is a small standing band, usually buttoned. A Nehru collar is a small standing collar that meets at the front.
Banded letterman collar
Letter jackets usually have a banded collar for men, matching the banded wrists and waistband. Women's versions often swap it for a top-buttoned hood that opens into a wider collar.
Turnover collars
Turnover collars stand around the neck, then fold or roll over.
Shirt-style collar
The A-2 flight jacket swapped the A-1's knit stand-up collar for a leather shirt-style collar. A sleek flight jacket like this can even go over a shirt and tie, according to Buffalo Jackson.
Fur and shearling collars
The Navy G-1 is known for its mouton (fur) collar. The B-15 also had a mouton fur collar. Aviator jackets often have a large shearling or fur-lined collar for warmth at the neck.
The biker collar
The classic biker jacket collar is wide. On Schott's steerhide Perfecto, the collar and lapels snap down.
That is the answer to "what is a biker jacket collar called": a wide collar with snap-down lapels, usually over an angled zip. See bomber jacket vs motorcycle jacket for how the two cuts compare.
Lapel collars
There are three basic lapels: notched, peaked and shawl.
- Notched. The most common lapel, seen on business suits, blazers and sport coats.
- Peaked. More formal, and nearly always on double-breasted jackets.
- Shawl. One continuous curve, usually on tuxedos. Cardigans use the shawl collar too.
The notched lapel started as a closure. Jackets that buttoned to the neck were turned back at an angle, and in bad weather you can still unfold a lapel to close the neck again. For where jackets end and coats begin, see jacket vs coat.
Hoods
A hood keeps your head and neck covered on cold, windy days. Leather Collection's hooded range also includes a shearling hooded bomber.
How to choose a jacket collar
Collar fit matters as much as style. The shoulder seam should sit at the tip of your shoulder. Our jacket fit and sizing guide shows how.
| If you want... | Pick | Why |
|---|---|---|
| The most wind protection | Shearling or fur collar, or a hood | Built for neck warmth |
| A sporty, casual look | Rib knit | The bomber and ball-jacket collar |
| A jacket you can dress up | Notched lapel or shirt collar | Blazer and A-2 styles |
| A rider's look | Wide collar with snap-down lapels | The Perfecto pattern |
| A clean, minimal line | Mandarin or band collar | Small and standing |
Choose the collar on a made-to-order jacket
On the Leather Collection custom bomber jacket page you choose the collar style, pocket placement, snap buttons and leather color. The page says the collar, cuffs and hem get extra stitching because they move the most.
FAQ
What are the different types of jacket collars?
There are three kinds: standing, turnover and flat. Common jacket styles include rib knit, mandarin, shirt, fur or shearling, and notched, peaked or shawl lapels.
What is a biker jacket collar called?
A classic biker has a wide collar with snap-down lapels.
What is the difference between a mandarin collar and a band collar?
Both are small standing collars. A mandarin is open at the front, while a band collar is usually buttoned.
What collar does a bomber jacket have?
Usually a flat rib knit collar that matches the cuffs and hem. Flight-inspired bombers may have a shirt collar (A-2) or a fur collar (G-1). See types of bomber jackets.
Related guides
- Bomber jacket vs flight jacket
- Bomber jacket vs varsity jacket
- Vinyl letterman jacket vs leather jacket
- To name a collar on a jacket in front of you, use our collar identification guide.
Sources
- Wikipedia, [Collar (clothing)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collar_(clothing)), Lapel and [Letterman (sports)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Letterman_(sports))
- Frank And Oak, Flight jacket vs bomber jacket
- Schott NYC, Steerhide Perfecto
All read 2026-10-10.
leatheride Editorial Team
leatheride articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.