Types of Leather Jackets Explained

The main types of leather jacket are the biker (or Perfecto), the cafe racer, the bomber, the flight jacket, the shearling jacket, the field jacket, the shirt-style jacket and the leather blazer. You can tell most of them apart by three details: the angle of the zip, the collar and where the hem sits.

Each type started with a job. Bikers came from motorcycling, bombers and flight jackets from military aviation, and field jackets from the army.

This page is part of our guide to leather jacket styles and their history.

Leather jacket types compared

"Varies" means our sources give no fixed rule for that detail. Longer leather pieces, such as the trench and car coat, are covered in types of leather coats and how they differ.

Biker jacket (Perfecto)

The biker is the classic leather jacket. Schott introduced the Perfecto in 1928 as the first jacket of its kind, and Wikipedia calls it the first such jacket with zippers. It has an asymmetrical zip, an attached belt and snap-down collar, lapels and epaulettes.

Some sellers call this cut a "double rider". The fit is snug, almost tailored, and short by today's standards.

Cafe racer jacket

The cafe racer strips the biker down. It is short and simple, with a straight zip and few extras. Leather Collection describes it as a clean, slim jacket with a short collar.

The name comes from the cafe racer motorcycle, tied to Britain's rockers riding between cafes such as the Ace Cafe. For which one suits you, compare it with the moto jacket.

Bomber jacket

A bomber is a short jacket inspired by military aviation, with ribbed cuffs and waistband and a front zip. In leather it sits at the hip and goes easily with jeans or chinos.

The leather bomber has many variations. See types of bomber jackets for the full list.

Flight jackets: A-2 and G-1

Flight jackets are the original leather "bombers." The A-2, adopted in 1931, swapped buttons for a zip and the knit collar for a leather shirt collar. The Navy G-1 is known for its fur collar and bi-swing back.

WWII aircrews often painted their A-2s and added squadron patches. Not sure whether you want a bomber or a flight jacket? Read bomber jacket vs flight jacket.

Shearling jacket

Shearling is sheepskin tanned with the wool left on, usually worn suede side out. Shearling flight jackets such as the B-3 are known as the warmest flight jackets. Real shearling is heavier and denser than the synthetic version, often sold as sherpa.

Field jacket

The field jacket is army gear, not aviation gear. The M-65 came into U.S. service in 1965 with four front pockets and a hood stored in the collar. The issued M-65 was made of cotton or cotton blends, not leather.

Shirt-style jacket and leather blazer

These are the dressier types. A shirt-style leather jacket is longer, with an open front that layers over a sweater. A leather blazer borrows its shape from the blazer, a sports jacket first worn in the 1860s for boating or cricket.

Real Men Real Style suggests a slim or tailored leather blazer with sleeves just above the wrist.

How to tell the types apart

Three checks name most jackets:

1. Zip. An angled zip points to a biker. A straight zip points to a cafe racer, bomber or flight jacket.
2. Collar. Snap-down lapels mean biker. Rib knit means bomber. A shirt or fur collar means flight jacket.
3. Hem. Ribbed knit at the hip means bomber. A plain short waist means biker or cafe racer.

For collars in detail, see common jacket collar types and how to identify them.

Which leather suits which type?

Leather Collection makes most jackets in cowhide or sheepskin. It says cowhide feels firmer and suits biker and cafe racer cuts, while sheepskin and lambskin drape more and suit shirt and bomber styles. Antelope, buckskin, goatskin and horsehide are also common jacket hides.

Hide grades and tanning are construction topics we leave to dedicated leather construction guides.

Fashion jacket or riding jacket?

They look alike but do different jobs. A fashion leather jacket would not give much protection in a motorcycle crash.

Protective jackets are heavier and thicker, may carry armor, and are cut longer at the back. See types of motorcycle jackets and their uses if you ride.

Shop the types

The Leather Collection men's leather jackets range includes biker, bomber, cafe racer, hooded, quilted, fur and shirt styles. Every jacket comes in a standard size or a custom size cut to your measurements.

FAQ

What are the different styles of leather jackets?

The main styles are biker, cafe racer, bomber, flight jacket, shearling, field jacket, shirt style and blazer. The table above compares them.

What is a leather jacket with patches called?

It depends on the patches. A punk leather jacket covered in patches, paint and studs grew out of the "battle jacket". A flight jacket with squadron patches follows the WWII A-2 tradition.

What aesthetic is a leather jacket?

There is more than one. Leather jacket styles are tied to aviators, motorcyclists and subcultures such as greasers, punks, goths and metalheads. A blazer or shirt-style jacket gives a cleaner look.

Which is better, lambskin or cowhide?

It depends on the cut. Leather Collection says cowhide is firmer and suits biker jackets, while lambskin is softer and suits bombers and shirt styles.

Related guides

• A brief history of jackets and their styles
• Common jacket types and how they differ
• Bomber jacket vs motorcycle jacket
• Want a worn look? See how to distress a jacket safely.
• Wondering which type keeps out the cold? See are leather jackets warm?

Sources

• Wikipedia: Leather jacket, Perfecto motorcycle jacket, Flight jacket, M-1965 field jacket, Shearling
• Schott NYC, Steerhide Perfecto
• Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum, Type A-2 flying jacket

All read 2026-10-10.