Leather Jacket Styles

Types of Leather Coats and How They Differ

Trench, duster, car coat, overcoat, pea coat, shearling and blazer: how leather coat types differ in length, closure and origin, and which to choose.

Types of Leather Coats and How They Differ

The main types of leather coat are the trench coat, the duster, the car coat, the overcoat, the pea coat, the shearling coat and, at the short end, the leather blazer. They differ in three ways: length, how they close, and the job they were first made for.

A trench is belted and double-breasted, a duster is long and loose for riding, and a car coat stops at mid-thigh. If you need a coat over a suit, pick a long one such as an overcoat and allow extra room at the chest.

This page is part of our guide to leather jacket styles and their history.

Leather coat types compared

"Varies" means our sources set no rule for that detail. The classic pea coat is navy wool, and overcoats are traditionally heavy cloth or fur. Leather Collection's coat range lists trench, duster, car coat and blazer cuts.

Leather coat types compared
CoatTypical lengthFront and closureSignature detailsFirst made for
Trench coatAbout knee length is the most versatileDouble-breasted, 10 buttons, beltWide lapels, storm flap, epaulettes, buckled cuff strapsBritish Army officers, WWI era
DusterFull length, often shorter todayLoose, open cutRear slit and leg straps on riding versionsU.S. horsemen
Car coatMid-thighUsually button-up with jetted pocketsSimple designEarly motorists
OvercoatBelow the kneeVariesLong and thick, made for warmthOutermost winter layer
TopcoatAt or above the kneeVariesLighter cloth than an overcoatVaries
Pea coatShortDouble-breasted, large buttonsBroad lapels, slash or vertical pocketsNavy sailors
Shearling coatVariesVariesSuede outside, fleece insideVaries
Leather blazerVariesButtons, notched lapelsTailored, slimThe 1860s boating blazer
One wearer in a leather trench coat, duster, car coat and blazer, front and side views showing where each hem falls

Leather trench coat

The trench is the most detailed coat. Traditional versions are double-breasted with 10 buttons, wide lapels, a storm flap, a self-belt and buckled cuff straps. Raglan sleeves and button-down epaulettes complete it.

It began as an officer's waterproof coat before WWI. It is usually not as warm as an overcoat. Leather trench coats grew more popular in the 2000s after The Matrix (1999).

Not every writer is a fan. Gentleman's Gazette advises against leather trench coats because of their wartime and villain associations, while The Zoe Report gives tips for wearing one. See are men's leather trench coats in style?.

Leather duster

The duster comes from the American West. The original dusters were full-length, light canvas or linen coats that kept trail dust off horsemen's clothes. Riding versions may have a buttoning rear slit and leg straps.

Dusters and trench coats are often confused. Wikipedia notes that black oilcloth dusters are wrongly called trench coats. The easy tell is the belt and double-breasted front of the trench. Read more in what is a duster jacket?

Leather car coat

The car coat was made for drivers and passengers of early open cars. Those first coats were long and often fur, and a red leather motoring coat featured in Paris fashion reports in 1921.

After WWII it took cues from the jeep coat and shrank to mid-thigh. Real Men Real Style describes the leather car coat as sitting just below the seat, simple and usually button-up.

Overcoat, topcoat and greatcoat

These are the long winter coats. An overcoat is long and thick and usually ends below the knee. A topcoat is shorter, at or above the knee, and lighter.

Two named versions are worth knowing. The Chesterfield is a dark, formal, knee-length overcoat with a velvet collar. The greatcoat is a large overcoat with a turn-up collar and often a short shoulder cape.

Pea coat

The pea coat is a sailor's coat. It is short and double-breasted, with broad lapels and large buttons. The classic is navy wool, and references to the pea jacket go back to the 1720s.

Shearling coat

Shearling is sheepskin tanned with the wool on. The suede side usually faces out and the fleece faces in. Real shearling is heavier and denser than synthetic "sherpa".

Leather blazer

The blazer sits at the short end of the range. Leather Collection lists blazers next to its long coats, from tailored cuts for work and events to long cuts that layer over a suit. Real Men Real Style suggests a slim or tailored leather blazer with sleeves just above the wrist.

How to choose by length and use

Coat length has a default too. Wikipedia says mid-calf is the most frequent overcoat length. For outfits, see how to wear a leather coat.

How to choose by length and use
If you want...ChooseWhy
A coat over a suitTrench or overcoatLong enough to cover the jacket; size up at the chest
Rain and wind coverTrenchBuilt as a waterproof coat, worn as a rain jacket or windbreaker
Most warmthOvercoat or shearlingThick, made for winter
Easy driving and sittingCar coatMid-thigh length
A shorter frameMid-thigh coatThe Modest Man says coats past the knee rarely flatter short men
Lighter spring wearUnlined coatLeather Collection says unlined coats are lighter for spring and fall

Leather coat or leather jacket?

The line is mostly length. A jacket is generally lighter, closer-fitting and less insulating than a coat, and "coat" tends to mean a longer garment. Read jacket vs coat for more, or types of leather jackets explained for the shorter styles.

Hide types and leather grades are a construction topic, which we leave to dedicated leather construction guides.

Shop leather coats

The Leather Collection men's leather coats range covers full-length trench, duster, car coat and blazer cuts in cowhide, sheepskin or goatskin. Every coat has a Custom Size option and a choice of regular, printed or no lining.

FAQ

What are the different types of leather coats?

The main ones are the trench, duster, car coat, overcoat, pea coat, shearling coat and leather blazer.

What is the difference between a trench coat and a duster?

A trench is double-breasted and belted, with a storm flap and epaulettes. A duster is a long, loose riding coat, sometimes with a rear slit and leg straps.

What is a car coat?

A coat first made for drivers of early cars that today usually ends at mid-thigh.

What are those long leather coats called?

A long belted one is usually a trench coat, and a long loose one is a duster. A long, thick coat without a belt may be an overcoat.

Sources

All read 2026-10-10.

leatheride Editorial Team

leatheride articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.