Jacket Fit and Sizing
Where Should a Bomber Jacket Sit?
A bomber's hem should sit around your waistband, between the top of your trousers and your hip, never over your seat. See where four style guides put it.
A bomber jacket's ribbed hem should sit around your waistband: from the top of your trousers down to your hip, and never over your seat. Style guides disagree on the exact line inside that band, so pick the point that suits the cut and check it standing and with your arms raised.
This page is part of our jacket fit and size guide. Hem is one of six checks in how a bomber jacket should fit.
Why a bomber sits short
The cut comes from U.S. military flight crews of the 1940s and 50s. Cockpits were cold and cramped, so the jacket had to be short enough not to bunch in a seat and tight at the wrists and waist. That is where the hip-length cut and ribbed hem come from.
Where the hem sits, source by source
The common ground: the hem covers your waistband and stays off your seat. Cropped bombers that end higher are a style choice rather than the default.
In this short video from The Style O.G., Jeff shows a bomber on the body and points to where the waistband should fall: around the top of the trousers or a little higher. That sits at the higher end of the range above; he also covers shoulders, the chest pinch test and cuffs.
| Source | Where the hem should sit |
|---|---|
| Decrum | At or just below the natural waistband; not down to the hip pocket |
| Weatherproof | At or just above the hip belt line, gripping without riding up |
| The Modest Man | On the hip |
| Gentleman's Gazette | At the hips; just below is acceptable; covering the seat is too long |
How to check where yours sits
- Stand relaxed, zipped up. The ribbed hem should hold snug at your waist without stretching tight. A dent from the knit means too tight; a gap means too loose.
- Raise both arms. A jacket that is too tight makes the ribbed hem ride up and pull.
- Look at the back. The hem should still be off your seat.
Tall, long torso or oversized
On tall men, a regular bomber in a bigger chest size often rides short. Some makers offer long sizes; Fox Creek Leather makes its long jackets 2 in longer in the body and sleeve.
Wearing a bomber oversized on purpose? Decrum suggests keeping the hem no lower than mid-hip.
If stock lengths never land right, a custom body length fixes it. Leather Collection custom bomber jackets ask for your body length measured from the base of your neck to where you want the hem to sit. For choosing the size itself, see bomber jacket sizing.
FAQ
Should a bomber jacket be fitted or loose?
A classic bomber fits close with room to move. Looser cuts exist, but the hem still should not drop below mid-hip.
Where should a bomber jacket sit on a woman?
The hem sources above write mainly for men and give no separate women's rule. What does differ is the cut: women's bombers add waist shaping and a more sloped shoulder. For a shorter style, see how a cropped leather jacket should fit.
leatheride Editorial Team
leatheride articles are researched from published sources, cited in the text, and reviewed before publication.