How Should a Vest Fit? Chest, Shoulders, Armholes and Neck

A vest should fit close to the body. It should skim your torso without pulling at the buttons or gaping at the sides. The shoulders lie flat, the armholes are snug but don't restrict you, and the neck hugs the back of your shirt collar. A leather riding vest is the exception: it needs room for the layers you wear under it.

For trousers, gloves and other pieces, see our leather clothing and accessories guide. This page covers tightness and shape. Where the hem should land depends on the vest type; see how long should a vest be.

Key takeaways- Snug, not tight: pulling across the buttons means the vest is too small.- Armholes snug, neck hugging the collar, shoulders flat.- Riding vest: one maker suggests 2 to 4 in (5 to 10 cm) of chest room over a T-shirt, more with layers.- Sources disagree on how much leather stretches, so don't buy a size too small and hope it gives.

Fit at a glance by vest type

Chest and body: snug, not tight

A waistcoat is the slimmest garment in menswear. Dan Trepanier of Articles of Style says it should skim the torso without feeling tight or showing pulling. Westwood Hart, a tailor, puts it the same way: close to the body, without pulling or gaping.

Pulling shows first at the buttons. Bespoke Edge warns that a slim cut that strains the buttons makes a vest look tight, and the wearer look bigger. If you carry weight at the middle, choose comfort and a smooth front over a slim cut.

Orvis adds a layering rule: an oversized shirt doesn't work under a vest, and a vest worn with jeans needs to fit well.

Shoulders and armholes

The shoulders should lie flat. Articles of Style's formal vest guide says a single-breasted vest's armholes should be snug but not restrictive. On a double-breasted vest they sit high and snug, because loose armholes cause bunching.

Leather Collection says its design consultant checks every measurement before cutting a custom vest, so it sits well across the shoulders, armholes and waist.

The neck and the back

Check the back of your collar in a mirror. The vest's neck should hug the back of the shirt collar without riding up or gapping. Off-the-rack necks are often too big for the body, which lets the vest shift. Articles of Style says a tailor can fix this.

Many dress vests have an adjustable cinch at the back. Bespoke Edge uses it to snug the vest for a fitted look or loosen it for long periods of sitting.

Buttons: how many, and which to leave open

Five buttons is the most common front. Bespoke Edge suggests six for men over about 6 ft 2 in (188 cm) or with a long torso, and four as an option for shorter men.

On a single-breasted day waistcoat the bottom button stays open. Double-breasted, evening and straight-hem waistcoats are fully buttoned. The history of that custom is on our vest length page.

Leather vests fit differently

A biker vest is made for riding, with snaps, side straps or laces. A classic vest has a cleaner front and is worn over a shirt or sweater. So the right fit depends on what goes under it.

For riding, Staghide, a vest maker, suggests adding 2 to 4 in (5 to 10 cm) to your chest measurement for a T-shirt, or 4 to 6 in (10 to 15 cm) for layers. Leather Collection says to measure over a thin shirt, or over the hoodie or thick layer you plan to wear.

Don't buy small and hope it gives. Sources disagree here: Leather Collection says leather softens with wear but does not change size significantly, while The Modest Man says it stretches somewhat.

Women's leather vests can be cut to your own bust, waist, shoulder and torso length. That helps when your shape falls between two sizes.

Quick fit test

Measure, then pick a size or go custom

Leather Collection's method: wear a thin shirt, then measure your chest at the fullest point, your waist at the narrowest point, and your shoulder width across the back from one shoulder bone to the other. The full steps are in how to measure for a vest size, and turning the numbers into a size is in how to choose the right vest size.

If no stock size fits, a Leather Collection custom leather vest is cut to your chest, waist, shoulder and length measurements. Standard sizes run US 32 to 50 (EU 42 to 60), and sizes in between are made to measure. The store says a firm leather suits a riding vest and a soft leather suits a fashion or formal vest.

FAQ

Should the bottom button of a waistcoat be done up?

Not on a single-breasted day waistcoat. Double-breasted, evening and straight-hem waistcoats are fully buttoned.

What is a vest?

A layer without sleeves, worn over a shirt or sweater. Americans and Canadians call it a vest, and the British call it a waistcoat.

How do I know what size vest to buy?

Measure your chest, waist and shoulders over a thin shirt and compare with the size guide. For a riding vest, measure over your riding layers.